Building Scarlet Moon Hall

Scarlet Moon Hall is one of the “haunted keeps” located in the Dessarin Valley and an important location early in the 5th edition D&D adventure Princes of the Apocalypse. The gallery that follows shows how I built the keep for my game using primarily Dwarven Forge City Builder terrain and D&D Dungeon Tiles. Below the gallery is a parts list for those interested.

Click the individual photos to read design and build notes for each floor.

Parts List

The following is a list of parts to build Scarlet Moon Hall similar to the way I have. In some cases it varies slightly from what I actually used as I ran out of pieces here and there and made due with what I had. I have linked to sets on the Dwarven Forge site that contain the pieces in question, but note that many pieces appear in multiple sets.

1st Floor (The Downward Path)

Here, and throughout the tower, one could opt to use only stone double posts, only wooden ones, or a combination of both. I chose to use both on the exterior walls for aesthetic and cost reasons.

Wall type and placement can also be varied. I chose to alternate solid stone walls with arrowslits, both horizontally and vertically.

2nd Floor (The Downward Path)

3rd Floor (Upper Entry Chamber)

If you use the ruined wood floors, the exterior will match the other wood floors (the outsides of the floor pieces are brown).

In addition to solid stone walls, one has the choice of magnetic walls and walls with LED torches to spruce up this build.

4th Floor (Cultist Barracks)

Here and elsewhere, it is possible to substitute a double posts with two corner posts. However, the double posts serve to hold adjacent floor pieces together, giving your build stability.

5th Floor (Elizar’s Chamber)

In my build, I used two more stone center window walls for the North wall (instead of a solid wall and arrowslit wall) simply due to running out of wall pieces.


I chose to make the walls of the attic Tudor style as I thought it helped offset the attic a bit from the stone walls of the structure.

Roof Support

Alternately, one could use a combination of any type of wood floors, as it simply supports the roof.


Using the 2″ x 4″ roof pieces creates a roof that isn’t as deep as the rest of the keep. One could alternately use a total of eight 4″ x 4″ roof pieces.


The pieces for the scaffold came from a variety of D&D Dungeon Tiles sets, but the most useful are found in DU6 Harrowing Halls and DU7 Desert of Athas.


These are great papercraft tents designed by Dave Graffam Models. Assembly required.

Cataloguing the Art of the Monster Manual


Copper Dragon, by Vance Kovacs

The 5th edition of Dungeons & Dragons is perhaps the most beautifully illustrated to date. The artwork begs to be shared, and at the table I enjoy showing players exactly what terrors they are facing. Pulling out the Monster Manual each time, however, can be cumbersome, especially when trying not to reveal the monster stats. As such, I prefer to use printouts of monster art or now, in the age ubiquitous digital devices, display them on a tablet.

Unfortunately, there is no complete digital art gallery available for the Monster Manual. In addition, although the Monster Manual credits all of the contributing artists, it doesn’t tie these credits to individual pieces. This makes tracking down a specific artist to see more of their work a bit of a chore.

To remedy these issues, I scoured the internet in an attempt to track down as many high quality original (i.e. not scanned from the book) versions of the art shown in the Monster Manual and determine their respective creators. Fortunately, many artists proudly display their work as part of their portfolio or on social media, and Wizards of the Coast has released some of it through various channels.

What follows is a list of every monster in the 5th edition Monster Manual for which there is a piece of primary artwork. This art is almost always directly above or near the stat block, but in a few cases multiple monsters are combined into a bigger full-page piece (see Myconids). For purposes of this list, I have omitted the artwork that is not directly tied to a stat block (such as monster sketches, backgrounds, section illustrations, etc.) Monsters with no art are omitted from this list.

Every monster for which I could find artwork from a primary source (i.e. the artist themself or Wizards of the Coast) is linked to that art. I made every attempt to link to the highest resolution image I could find. In some cases, I have linked to multiple pieces of art if the original varies from the printed version in some meaningful way (see Azer).

Wherever it was possible to determine it, I have listed the artist who created the work. In some cases the credit is simply a studio (e.g. Conceptopolis). If I was able to determine the name of a specific artist at a studio who produced a work, I credit them both.

This catalog is far from complete. I encourage readers who can identify the artist of a monster lacking a credit, and who can link to a high quality digital version, to post in the comments. Artist homepages, ArtStation, DeviantArt, Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram, are excellent places to look when attempting to track down individual pieces. If you are an artist who contributed to the Monster Manual, please say hi in the comments as well.


Aarakocra by Christopher Burdett, page 12
Aboleth by Mark Behm, page 13
Adult Blue Dracolich by Ralph Horsley, page 84
Air Elemental by Kieran Yanner, page 124
Allosaurus: See Dinosaurs
Ancient Black Dragon by Craig J Spearing, page 87
Ancient Blue Dragon by John-Paul Balmet, page 90
Ancient Brass Dragon by Daniel Landerman, page 104
Ancient Bronze Dragon by Craig J Spearing, page 107
Ancient Copper Dragon by Vance Kovacs, page 110 and title page
Ancient Gold Dragon by Autumn Rain Turkel, page 113
Ancient Green Dragon by Daren Bader, page 93
Ancient Red Dragon by Zack Stella, page 97
Ancient Silver Dragon (Monster Manual) by Tom Babbey, page 116
Ancient Silver Dragon (Original) by Tom Babbey, page 116
Ancient White Dragon by Lars Grant-West, page 100
Androsphinx by Brynn Metheney, page 281
Animated Armor by Autumn Rain Turkel, page 19
Ankheg by Christopher Burdett, page 21
Arcanaloth by Andrew Mar, page 313
Archmage by Tyler Jacobson, page 342
Azer (Monster Manual) by Milivoj Ceran, page22
Azer (Original) by Milivoj Ceran, page 22


Balor by Conceptopolis, page 55
Bandit Captain by Vincent Proce, page 344
Banshee by Tomas Giorello, page 23
Barbed Devil (Hamatula), page 70
Barlgura by Conceptopolis, page 56
Basilisk by Ilya Shkipin, page 24
Bearded Devil (Barbazu) by Mike Sass, page 70
Behir by John-Paul Balmet, page 25
Beholder by Kieran Yanner, page 28
Beholder Zombie by Conceptopolis, page 315
Black Dragon Wyrmling, page 86 (previous printed in 4th edition’s Draconomicon: Chromatic Dragons)
Black Pudding, page 241
Blights (Needle, Twig, Vine) (Monster Manual) by Conceptopolis, page 31
Blights (Needle, Twig, Vine) (Original) by Conceptopolis, page 31
Blink Dog by Conceptopolis, page 319
Blue Slaad by Rudy Siswanto for Conceptopolis, page 275
Bone Devil (Osyluth) by Filip Burburan, page 71
Bone Naga by Conceptopolis, page 233
Bronze Dragon Wyrmling, page 109
Bugbear by Steve Prescott, page 33
Bulette by Cory Trego-Erdner, page 34
Bullywug by Conceptopolis, page 35


Cambion (Monster Manual) by Milivoj Ceran, page 36
Cambion (Original) by Milivoj Ceran, page 36
Carrion Crawler by Brynn Metheney, page 37
Centaur by Wesley Burt, page 38
Chain Devil (Kyton) by Marco Nelor, page 72
Chasme by Conceptopolis, page 57
Chimera, page 39
Chuul by Kate Pfeilschiefter, page 40
Clay Golem by Jasper Sandner for Conceptopolis, page 168
Cloaker by Mark Behm, page 41
Cloud Giant by Justin Sweet, page 154
Cockatrice by Filip Burburan, page 42
Couatl by Conceptopolis, page 43
Crawling Claw by Jim Pavelec, page 44
Cult Fanatic by Lindsey Look, page 345
Cyclops by Tomas Giorello, page 45


Dao by Conceptopolis, page 143
Darkmantle by Mark Behm, page 46
Death Dog by Rudy Siswanto for Conceptopolis, page 321
Death Knight by Conceptopolis, page 47
Death Slaad by Conceptopolis, page 278
Death Tyrant by Kieran Yanner, page 29
Deep Gnome (Svirfneblin), page 164
Demilich by Michael Berube, page 48
Deva by Conceptopolis, page 16
Dinosaurs by Marc Sasso, page 79
Displacer Beast by Conceptopolis, page 81
Djinni by Conceptolis, page 144
Doppelganger by Vance Kovacs, page 82
Dragon Turtle, page 119
Dretch by Muhamad Faizal Fikri for Conceptopolis, page 57
Drider by Daniel Landerman, page 120
Drow Mage, page 127
Druid by Jesper Ejsing, page 346
Dryad by Richard Whitters, page 121
Duergar by Jasper Sandner, page 122
Duodrone by Julie Dillon, page 225
Dust Mephit, page 215


Earth Elemental by Kieran Yanner, page 124
Efreeti by Conceptopolis, page 145
Empyrean by Cory Trego-Erdner, page 130
Erinyes by Allen Williams, page 73
Ettercap, page 131
Ettin by Kieran Yanner, page 132


Faerie Dragon by Mike Sass, page 133
Fire Elemental, page 125
Fire Giant by Daniel Ljunggren, page 154
Fire Snake by Christopher Burdett, page 265
Flameskull by Conceptopolis, page 134
Flesh Golem by Conceptopolis, page 169
Flumph by Conceptopolis, page 135
Flying Sword, page 20
Fomorian by Conceptopolis, page 136
Frost Giant by Justin Sweet, page 155
Fungi (Gas Spore, Shrieker, Violet Fungus), page 137


Galeb Duhr by Conceptopolis, page 139
Gargoyle by Brynn Metheney, page 140
Gas Spore: See Fungi
Gelatinous Cube (Monster Manual) by Conceptopolis, page 242
Gelatinous Cube by Conceptopolis, page 242
Ghast by Ryan Pancoast, page 148
Ghost, page 147
Giant Eagle, page 324
Giant Fire Beetle by Conceptopolis, page 325
Giant Spider by Brynn Metheney, page 328
Gibbering Mouther by Conceptopolis, page 157
Githyanki Warrior by Emrah Elmasli, page 160
Githzerai Monk by Emrah Elmasli, page 161
Glabrezu by Conceptopolis, page 58
Gnoll (Monster Manual) by Conceptopolis, page 163
Gnoll by Conceptopolis, page 163
Goblin by Steve Prescott, page 166
Gorgon by Zack Stella, page 171
Goristro by Conceptopolis, page 59
Gray Ooze, page 243
Gray Slaad by Conceptopolis, page 275
Green Hag by Conceptopolis, page 177
Green Slaad by Rudy Siswanto for Conceptopolis, page 275
Grell by Daniel Landerman, page 172
Grick by Conceptopolis, page 173
Griffon, page 174
Grimlock by Milivoj Ceran, page 175
Guardian Naga, page 234
Gynosphinx by Brynn Metheney, page 282


Half-Ogre by Conceptopolis, page 238
Half-Red Dragon Veteran by Conceptopolis, page 180
Harpy by Jesper Ejsing, page 181
Hawk by Martias Tapia, page 330
Hell Hound by Rudy Siswanto for Conceptopolis, page 182
Helmed Horror by Mathew Stewart, page 183
Hezrou by Conceptopolis, page 60
Hill Giant by Justin Sweet, page 155
Hippogriff, page 184
Hobgoblin Warlord, page 187
Homunculus by Brynn Metheney, page 188
Hook Horror by Cory Trego-Erdner, page 189
Horned Devil (Malebranche) by Jim Pavelec, page 74
Hydra by Zack Stella, page 190
Hyena, page 331 (previously printed in 4th edition’s Monster Vault: Threats to the Nentir Vale)


Ice Devil (Gelugon) by Dave Dorman, page 75
Ice Mephit, page 215
Imp by Slawomir Maniak, page 76
Incubus by Conceptopolis/Richard Suwono, page 285
Intellect Devourer by Conceptopolis, page 191
Invisible Stalker by David Vargo, page 192
Iron Golem by Conceptopolis, page 170

J, K

Jackalwere by Conceptopolis, page 193
Kenku, page 194
Kobold by Conceptopolis, page 195
Kraken by Christopher Burdett, page 197
Kuo-Toa by Min Yum, page 198
Kuo-Toa by Zoltan Boros, page 199
Kuo-Toa Archpriest by Zoltan Boros, page 200
Kuo-Toa Whip by Zoltan Boros, page 200


Lamia by Brynn Metheney, page 201
Lemure by Jasper Sandner, page 76
Lich (Monster Manual) by E. M. Gist, page 202
Lich (Original) by E. M. Gist, page 202
Lizardfolk by Conceptopolis, page 204


Magma Mephit, page 216
Magmin by Toma Feizo Gas, page 212
Manes by Conceptopolis, page 60
Manticore (Monster Manual) by Zack Stella, page 213
Manticore (Original) by Zack Stella, page 213
Marid by Muhamad Faizal Fikri for Conceptopolis, page 146
Marilith by Conceptopolis, page 61
Mastiff by Rudy Siswanto for Conceptopolis, page 332
Medusa by Richard Suwono for Conceptopolis, page 214
Merfolk, page 218
Merrow by Rudy Siswanto for Conceptopolis, page 219
Mezzoloth, page 313
Mimic by Eric Belisle, page 220
Mind Flayer (Illithid) by Conceptopolis, page 222
Minotaur by Brynn Metheney, page 223
Minotaur Skeleton, page 273
Monodrone by Julie Dillon, page 224
Mud Mephit, page 216
Mummy by Vincent Proce, page 228
Myconid Adult: See Myconids
Myconid Sovereign: See Myconids
Myconid Sprout: See Myconids
Myconids by Hector Ortiz, page 231


Nalfeshnee by Conceptopolis, page 62
Needle Blight: See Blights
Night Hag by Conceptopolis, page 178
Nightmare by Conceptopolis, page 235
Noble by Daniel Landerman, page 348
Nothic, page 236
Nycaloth, page 314


Ochre Jelly, page 243
Ogre by Mark Behm, page 237
Ogre Zombie, page 315
Oni, page 239
Orc by Conceptopolis, page 246
Orog by Marco Nelor, page 247
Otyugh by Brynn Metheney, page 248
Owlbear by Brynn Metheney, page 249


Pegasus by Dave Dorman, page 250
Pentadrone by Julie Dillon, page 226
Peryton, page 251
Phase Spider, page 334
Piercer by Brynn Metheney, page 252
Pit Fiend by Michael Berube, page 77
Pixie, page 253
Planetar by Conceptopolis, page 17
Plesiosaurus, page 80
Pseudodragon by Tom Babbey, page 254
Pteranodon: See Dinosaurs
Purple Worm, page 255


Quadrone by Julie Dillon, page 226
Quaggoth, page 256
Quasit by Autumn Rain Turkel, page 63
Quipper by Cyril Van Der Haegen, page 335


Rakshasa by Ilya Shkipin, page 257
Rat, page 338
Red Slaad by Rudy Siswanto for Conceptopolis, page 275
Remorhaz by Cory Trego-Erdner, page 258
Revenant by Christopher Moeller, page 259
Riding Horse, page 336
Roc by Conceptopolis, page 260
Roper by Brynn Metheney, page 261
Rug of Smothering, page 20
Rust Monster by Brynn Metheney, page 262


Sahuagin by Conceptopolis, page 263
Sahuagin Baron, page 264
Salamander by Christopher Burdett, page 266
Satyr by Lake Hurwitz, page 267
Scarecrow by Dave Dorman, page 268
Scout by Lindsey Look, page 349
Sea Hag by Conceptopolis, page 179
Shadow, page 269
Shadow Demon by Conceptopolis, page 64
Shambling Mound by Ilya Shkipin, page 270
Shield Guardian by Conceptopolis, page 271
Shrieker: See Fungi.
Skeleton by Autumn Rain Turkel, page 272
Smoke Mephit, page 217
Solar by Conceptopolis, page 18
Spectator by Kieran Yanner, page 30
Specter, page 279
Spined Devil (Spinagon) by Michael Berube, page 78
Spirit Naga, page 234
Sprite, page 283
Steam Mephit, page 217
Stirge by Brynn Metheney, page 284
Stone Giant (Monster Manual) by Marco Nelor, page 156
Stone Giant (Original) by Marco Nelor, page 156
Stone Golem by Conceptopolis, page 170
Storm Giant by John-Paul Balmet, page 156
Succubus (Monster Manual) by Richard Suwono for Conceptopolis, page 285
Succubus by Richard Suwono for Conceptopolis, page 285
Swarm of Bats, page 337


Tarrasque by Cory Trego-Erdner, page 287
Thri-Kreen by Ilya Shkipin, page 288
Thug by Tyler Jacobson, page 350
Treant, page 289
Tridrone by Julie Dillon, page 225
Troglodyte, page 290
Troll by Daniel Ljunggren, page 291
Twig Blight: See Blights


Ultroloth, page 314
Umber Hulk (Monster Manual) by Cory Trego-Erdner, page 292
Umber Hulk (Original) by Cory Trego-Erdner, page 292
Unicorn by Toma Feizo Gas, page 294


Vampire, page 295
Vampire Spawn by Conceptopolis, page 298
Vine Blight: See Blights
Violet Fungus: See Fungi
Vrock by Conceptopolis, page 64


Water Elemental by Kieran Yanner, page 125
Water Weird, page 299
Werebear, page 208
Wereboar by Conceptopolis, page 209
Wererat by Conceptopolis, page 209
Weretiger by Conceptopolis, page 210
Werewolf, page 211
Wight by Autumn Rain Turkel, page 300
Will-o’-Wisp by Hector Ortiz, page 301
Winter Wolf, page 340
Worg, page 341
Wraith by Justin Sweet, page 302
Wyvern by Brynn Metheney, page 303

X, Y, Z

Xorn by Mike Burns, page 304
Yeti, page 305
Yochlol by Conceptopolis, page 65
Young Red Shadow Dragon by Craig J Spearing, page 85
Yuan-Ti Abomination by Conceptopolis, page 308
Yuan-Ti Malison (Type 1) by Conceptopolis, page 309
Yuan-Ti Pureblood by Conceptopolis, page 310
Zombie by Conceptopolis, page 315

Shifty Cow

In celebration of there finally being an official cow statblock for 5th Edition D&D (as seen in Volo’s Guide to Monsters) I statted up a Shifty Looking Cow for anyone interested. You’re welcome?Shifty Looking Cow (Volo).jpg

Princes of the Apocalypse: Random Unusual Weather

Early in Princes of the Apocalypse  it is repeatedly suggested that the Sumber Hills have been experiencing unusual weather lately. To reinforce that theme, I developed a set of random unusual weather tables for use while running the adventure.

Random Unusual Weather In Sumber Hills

Roll once per day on each of the tables below to determine how the weather is out of the ordinary. With these tables, there is around a 41% that some sort of strange weather will happen on a given day. If results happen too frequently or infrequently, the DM should feel free to reroll or just decide that something does or does not happen.

unusual weather



The DM can decide that unusual weather happens at any time during the day, or at multiple times, depending on what makes the most sense with the results on the table and what the PCs are doing.  A sudden thunderstorm can break up an otherwise uneventful day of travel, or disrupt a night camping under the stars forcing the PCs to find shelter.


The duration of the events are also up to the DM’s discretion and what makes the most sense with the results rolled.  For instance, unseasonable hot or cold temperatures might last throughout the day (and return to normal the next day), but a tornado is more likely a single event. Because later events in the story tend to amplify the weather and produce greater, longer effects, it’s probably best to keep these random strange weather events limited to a smaller period of time: a sudden, violent storm that develops quickly and stop just as abruptly a few minutes or an hour later; a series of small tremors that last a few minutes and then stop.

Connections To Random Encounters

There are several random encounters (p.30) that, when paired with an appropriate weather event, can help get across the idea that the strange weather is tied to the various cults. For instance, a sudden violent downpour may indicate that nearby is a group of water cultists (“Water cult marauders” encounter) gathered at the shore of a small pond upon which as water priest is conducting a rite of Olhydra. If you roll for random encounters and unusual weather at the start of the day, and both occur, feel free to let one inform the other, e.g., if the random weather is tremors, then instead of using the random encounter rolled, change it to something involving the earth cult (and include a priest or other magic user).  Or if the random encounter is fire cult related and something came up when you rolled for random weather, change the weather to unusually high temperatures in the area around the encounter.

Unintentional Connections

Be prepared for your players to draw the wrong conclusions about random strange weather. For instance, if you randomly roll up tremors the same day that they make it to Feathergale Spire, they’ll probably think the Feathergale Knights were responsible. You could mitigate this by having the strange weather correlate more closely with the Haunted Keep that best reflects it (i.e. high winds near Feathergale Spire, downpours closer to Rivergard Keep) but the randomness of the weather and its possible lack of correlation with places the PCs visit may also help hint at the fact that there is something larger happening and many factions at work.

Design Notes

I used the Weather table (DMG p109) as a starting point for this set of tables.  You could easily include the light wind/precipitation from the DMG tables in the ones I published above; I opted not to for simplicity and to accentuate abruptness of the unusual weather.

Hoard of the Dragon Queen Chapter 1: Miniatures

If you plan to run Hoard of the Dragon Queen with miniatures, here are a few suggestions on what you might use and how many you’ll need in Chapter 1.  The counts are based on the maximum number you’re likely to need at one time, not the total that appear in the chapter.


Castellan Escobert the Red

Desert of Desolation 4 Dwarf MaulfighterDwarf Maulfighter (Desert of Desolation 4).

Unfortunately, this miniature doesn’t have a red beard.
Unless, of course, you repaint it.


Eadyan Falconmoon

Angelfire 12 Village PriestVillage Priest (Angelfire 12).




Governor Tarbaw Nighthill

Dragoneye 07 Purple Dragon Knight Dungeon Command: Heart of Cormyr Dragon KnightPurple Dragon Knight (Dragoneye 7) or
Dragon Knight (Dungeon Command: Heart of Cormyr)



Langdedrosa Cyanwrath, Half-Blue Dragon

Tyranny of Dragons Half Red Dragon FighterHalf-Red Dragon Fighter (Tyranny of Dragons 36).

You’ll just have to pretend he’s blue.  There don’t appear to be any good prepainted miniature options for a half-blue dragon/dragonborn short of painting one yourself.


Lennithon, Adult Blue Dragon

D&D Attack Wing Blue DragonBlue Dragon (D&D Attack Wing).

Although a bit small, I like the Attack Wing version of this Blue Dragon because it can be made to fly high over the battlefield by adding multiple pegs (something that’s not possible with the Tyranny of Dragons version).


Linan Swift, her husband, and children

Linan Swift Husband and ChildrenHealer (Archfiends 9)
Man with Hoe (Reaper Townsfolk V)
Townsfolk Children (Reaper)

These reaper minis are metal, not plastic.




Sergeant Markguth

 Dungeons of Dread 35 Human Fighter4eGD4/5 Human FighterHuman Fighter (Dungeons of Dread 35 or 4eGD4/5 Promo)




Other Creatures

Acolyte (x1)

Legendary Evils  11 DoomdreamerArchfiends 48 Cultist of the DragonDoomdreamer (Legendary Evils 11) or
Cultist of the Dragon (Archfiends 48)



Ambush Drake (x2)

Tyranny of Dragons 22 Guard DrakeGuard Drake (Tyranny of Dragons 22).

There is no official 5th Edition Ambush Drake miniature, but the Ambush Drake will do in a pinch.  And for the ambitious, you can always repaint it.


Cultist (x7)

Bloodwar 47 Doomguard Lords of Madness 42 Shadar-Kai WarriorDoomguard (Bloodwar 47)
Shadar-Kai Warrior (Lord of Madness 42)

The cultists are described as not wearing any particular regalia and are made up of, at least in part, mercenaries.  These minis seem to fit the bill.



Tyranny of Dragons 20 Cult Of The Dragon EnforcerCult of the Dragon Enforcer (Tyranny of Dragons 20)

Mostly matches the picture on page 71 of Hoard of the Dragon Queen, makes you wonder why the miniature got a different name.


Female Prisoner

D&DC 54 Prisoner Night Below 40 PrisonerPrisoner (Promo repaint D&DC54) or
Prisoner (Night Below 40)



Guard (x4)

Angelfire 01  Caravan Guard Caravan Guard (Angelfire 1)




Keep Defenders (x20+)

DefendersSharn Redcloak (Demonweb 44)
Human Town Guard (Lords of Madness 22)
Dalelands Militia (Archfiends 2)
Greyhawk City Militia Sergeant (Night Below 13)
Human Crossbowman (Dragoneye 5)
City Guard (Giants of Legend 23)

A selection of guard miniatures to man the battlements of the keep.  Want their stats to match the minis?  Add the following to the Guard statblock:

Armor Class: 16 (chain shirt, shield) or 14 (no shield).

Longbow.  Ranged Weapon Attack:  +3 to hit, range 150/600 ft., one target.  Hit:  5 (1d8 + 1) piercing damage.

Glaive/Halberd.  Melee Weapon Attack:  +3 to hit, reach 10ft., one target.  Hit:  5 (1d10 + 1 slashing damage).

Crossbow.  Ranged Weapon Attack:  +3 to hit, range 80/320ft., one target.  Hit:  5 (1d8 + 1) piercing damage.

Longsword.  Melee Weapon Attack:  +3 to hit, reach 5ft., one target.  Hit:  5 (1d8 + 1 slashing damage or 6 (1d10 + 1) slashing damage if used two-handed.

Kobold (x22)

Kobolds copyKobold Slinger (DDM4 27)
Kobold Fighter (Tyranny of Dragons 5)
Kobold Soldier (Angelfire 44)

Kobold Skirmisher (Dragoneye 35)

A majority of the time you won’t need more than 5 or so kobolds, but the “Sanctuary” mission involves 22.  Although the Kobold stat block is statted out with slings and daggers, I chose to include minis bearing spears/javelins and bows for variety.

If you want the stats to match the minis, just add the following:

Javelin.  Melee or Ranged Weapon Attack: +4 to hit, reach 5ft or range 30/120, one target.  Hit: 5 (1d6 + 2) piercing damage.

Shortbow/Crossbow.  Ranged Weapon Attack: +4 to hit, range 80/320, one target.  Hit: 5 (1d6 + 2) piercing damage.

Winged Kobold (x1)

Wrath of the Dragon Queen 32 Dragonwrought KoboldDragonwrought Kobold(Dragon Queen 32)




Swarms of Rats (x2)

Rat SwarmsRat Swarm (Pathfinder Skull & Shackles 2) or
Rat Swarm (Savage Encounters 28)

I prefer the paint job and the sculpt of the Pathfinder miniature, but the flatter D&D mini makes it possible to slip the figure underneath another when they’re sharing the same space.

Townsfolk (x6+)

Reaper TownsfolkAnirion Wood Elf (Reaper Bones)
Balto Burrowell Gnome Wizard (Reaper Bones)
Juliette Female Sorceress (Reaper Bones)
Lem Iconic Bard (Reaper Bones)
Mother With Children (Reaper Bones)
Townsfolk: Innkeeper (Reaper Bones)
Townsfolk: Blacksmith (Reaper Bones)
Townsfolk: Grandmother (Reaper Bones)
Townsfolk: Village Rioter (Reaper Bones)
Townsfolk: Strumpet (Reaper Bones)
Townsfolk: Undertaker (Reaper Bones)
Townsfolk: Wench (Reaper Bones)
Man with Hoe (Reaper Townsfolk V)
Man with Sickle (Reaper Townsfolk VIII: Village Mob)
Woman with Rolling Pin  (Reaper Townsfolk VIII: Village Mob)
Man with Pitch Fork (Reaper Townsfolk VIII: Village Mob)

The Reaper Bones minis are great for when you need to throw in a few townsfolk (“Seek the Keep”, “Wandering Encounters”, “Sanctuary”).  Since they are unnamed NPCs I just use the unpainted miniatures.

The non-Bones minis in the list are made of metal.

Gridded Greenest

If you’re planning on running Hoard of the Dragon Queen and using miniatures, you might considering drawing the encounter locations in Chapter 1 on a wet or dry erase battlemat.  To make things easier, I’ve taken the map of Greenest found in the adventure and overlaid a grid to use as a reference for drawing.  Each square is 5 feet by 5 feet.  The map comes in two versions: one with an all black grid, and a second with a semi-transparent black grid.  Both are linked below.

Solid Black Grid

Transparent Black Grid

The map of Greenest in Hoard of the Dragon Queen was illustrated by Jared Blando.  You can purchase a high resolution version of it and other maps at his website, The Red Epic.

Using Fortune Cards as Player Rewards

Fortune CardsWhat Are Fortune Cards?

Fortune Cards were originally released by Wizards of the Coast to support the in-store D&D Encounters program.  These cards, sold in random booster packs, provide one-time (mostly combat) benefits to characters when cards are played at the table.  Originally intended to serve as a deck that a player draws from once per round, crafty DMs can re-purpose them as a reward mechanic in their 4th Edition D&D games.

Why A Reward Mechanic?

Many DMs like to reward players with something extra when they go out of their way to contribute to the fun at the table.  Some award extra experience points, others use bonus Action Points, still others grant bonuses to the next die roll.  Fortune Cards offer a fun mechanic for rewarding players in a unique and random way that ties in directly to 4e mechanics. Plus, if you have some around just gathering dust, you might as well get some use out of them.

Getting Started

To construct your reward deck(s), you will need to purchase some Fortune Cards. There were five different sets of card printed: Neverwinter, Shadows Over the Nentir Vale Fury of the Feywild, Spiral of Tharizdun, and Drow Treachery. You will primarily be interested in getting cards from the Neverwinter, Shadow Over the Nentir Vale, and Spiral of Tharizdun sets, as they are mostly setting/theme agnostic. Each set contains 80 unique cards: 20 designated as common, 20 as uncommon, and 40 that are rare. A standard booster pack for a set contains 8 cards made up of 5 common, 2 uncommon, and 1 rare. A handful of promo card were also printed for each set.

You have a few options as to how to acquire cards:

  • Booster Packs: At a suggested retail of $3.99, these packs of 8 cards average to about 50 cents per card.
  • Display Box: You can find retailers that will sell an entire display box of Fortune Cards for $40 to $70. A display box contains 24 packs (for a total of 192 cards), so this averages out to about $1.50 to $3.00 per pack (20 to 40 cents per card). It’s a good way to get a lot of random cards at once at a slight discount, but you still won’t get a complete set of unique cards (more than likely you’ll get all of the commons and uncommons, and a third or half of the rares).
  • Complete Sets of Common, Uncommon, Rare, or All: Some online retailers as well as sellers on eBay sell complete sets of cards by rarity or even the entire set. This is a practical way to ensure getting all of the unique cards in a set, but you will only have one copy of each at slightly higher cost per card. Complete sets of Common and Uncommon together tend to be around $5.00 (about 12 cents per card), full sets can range anywhere from $60.00-$100.0 ($0.75 – $1.00 per card).
  • Individual Cards: Individual cards can be purchase at some online retailers and eBay, which can be useful/economical when trying to complete a set or cherry-pick a few cards from some of the other sets like Fury of the Feywild. Prices vary, but a good baseline seems to be 10 cents for commons, 25 cents for uncommon, and $3.00 for rares.

Constructing Reward Deck(s)

Depending on how many cards you have and personal preference regarding how you want to reward players, there are several ways to set up one or more reward decks for use at the table. I have presented several here, feel free to choose one that suits your play style best (or come up with your own). Regardless of which method of deck construction you choose, you should start by selectively weeding your pool of available cards.

Weeding Out The Duds

Ideally, you want your Fortunate Card rewards to be something interesting and fun that the players can use to gain a leg up in encounters. Since the full run of Fortune Cards covers a wide range of situations and effects, you will more than likely need to pull out those cards that won’t work in your game. Here are a few quick things to look out for:

  • Any cards that don’t seem like the players would find very rewarding or useful. (e.g. “Push Through The Crowd”, which allows a character to move through enemies but incurs attacks of opportunity with combat advantage).
  • Cards that have very specific conditions under which they can be applied (e.g. “Vicious Shove” which triggers on an enemy succeeding a saving throw to avoid forced moved into hindering terrain).
  • If you have a good sense for what your player characters (and monsters they might face) can do, remove any cards that target conditions/abilities that aren’t likely to come into play (e.g. “Brutal Takedown” which requires the ability to daze an enemy). You can always add these cards back in later.
  • Any cards that just don’t fit with your game thematically, etc.

Selectively pruning cards in this way will help to ensure that the Fortune Cards you hand out actually feel like rewards (or at least provide new and interesting options).

Option 1:  One Reward Deck

This is the easiest reward deck to construct: You simply gather all the cards you plan on using and put them in one shuffled pile. It’s fast and easy to set up, but you may find that drawing from it results in rewards that don’t often match the player’s contributions (for instance, a player may make a huge sacrifice but be rewarded with a common card with a small effect). Also, if you purchased just a complete set of cards, the ratio of common, uncommon, and rare cards will be skewed toward rares (sets contain twice as many unique rares as commons and uncommons). With a little more work you can make it into a deck of all unique cards, or play with the card ratios to affect the distribution of cards.

Variant:  All Unique Cards

Constructing the reward deck such that it only has one copy of every card ensures that every reward you hand out, and every card that is played, is unique and different.

Variant:  Card Ratios

You can also construct a single deck but use the rarity of the cards to determine how many of each to include in the deck. This of course requires you to have many more cards, but if you bought them in packs or display boxes that shouldn’t be a problem. You can decide on whatever ratio you like, but here are two examples:

  • Include 1 of each rare card, 3 of each uncommon card, and 5 of each common card. Since there are more rare cards to choose from (each set has 40 rares, compared to 20 each common and uncommon), the ratio of cards will actually be 2 rares, 3 uncommon, and 5 common per 10 cards.
  • Include 4 of each common card, 2 of each uncommon card, and choose (or randomly draw) a number of unique rare cards equal to ¼ the total number of common cards you’ve included. This method makes uncommon cards twice as numerous as rares, and common cards twice as numerous as uncommon (and four times as numerous as rares), but still keeps the total deck size somewhat reasonable.

Again, the reward a player gets from the deck is random (in terms of how powerful it is), though in this case you are setting the power ratio of reward cards in the deck.

Option 2:  Multiple Decks, Sorted By Rarity

If you want more control over the power of the rewards you’re handing out, you can opt to create multiple decks sorted by rarity (e.g. a common deck, an uncommon deck, and a rare deck). When it comes time to hand out a reward, you choose which deck to pull from based on how great of a reward you think they have earned. You can use all of your cards, can make each deck contain only unique cards, or play with the ratio in each deck to control how many copies of a card are out at one time.

Card Ratios

If you want duplicate cards at the table, but want to control the frequency of cards based on their rarity, do the following: In your common deck, include 4 of each common card. In the uncommon deck, include 2 of each uncommon card. In the rare deck include 1 of each card. Since you are determining the rarity of cards at the table by rewarding the players based on merit, these ratios instead control the likeliness that more than one person at the table gets the same card. Another formula would be to include 1 less than the number players of each common card, and half that number of uncommon, and one rare.

Option 3:  Multiple Custom Decks (Ignoring Rarity)

This method takes the most time and effort to construct the decks, but gives you the most control (and is my current preferred setup). Although the rarity assigned to each Fortune Card gives some sense of its power, it doesn’t always correlate with how good the card is from a player’s perspective. The play style of you and your players may make some cards better or worse than the rarity suggests. For example, a rare card that provides bonuses on opportunity attacks isn’t very valuable if, as a DM, your monsters rarely provoke attacks of opportunity. With that in mind, you can take the time to go through all of your cards and sort them into a few categories based on how valuable you think they actually are, without regard to rarity.

Here are the categories/decks I’ve sorted my cards into:

  • Average: These are cards that have a decent benefit, but perhaps not as good as some of the other cards. These cards tend to be more conditional (that is to say, they don’t just provide a blanket bonus for free) or they require the player to take some kind of penalty or disadvantage to one thing in order to gain a bonus in another. Cards of the latter type are often categorized as rare but I consider them less valuable to players than a card that just provides a straight bonus with no caveats.

    • “Shifty Moves” – Allows you to shift 1 square as a minor action.  This could come in handy, but isn’t something that’s good no matter the situation.
    • “Think Again” – Grants you +4 bonus to defense against an opportunity attack. This is conditional, it requires an opportunity attack.
    • “Keep At It” – Allows you to reroll an attack roll, but you take damage equal to your level.  This card is useful, but comes with a cost.
  • Good:  These are the cards that either always provide a benefit with no prerequisites, or require common enough circumstances as to be good in most combats.  It may be easiest to decide what constitutes a good card first and then what makes an average card by comparison.

    • “Impervious” – Allows you to turn a critical hit into a normal one.  This is conditional (you have to be hit with a critical) but provides a considerable benefit.
    • “Fair Fight” – +2 bonus this turn to attack rolls of your At-Will powers.
  • Gambler:  This is contains all the cards whose outcome depend on either a simple 50/50 die roll or provide a benefit for success and a penalty for failure on a die roll. I decided to put these in a separate deck based on my players–some find the idea of taking the risk to reap the reward interesting, others like to play it safe and would be less inclined to risk it. Putting these cards in a separate deck allows me hand out these types of cards only to players who I think will be likely to use them.

    • “Gambler’s Eye” – Roll a d20, on 1-9 you take -2 to attack rolls until end of this turn, 10-20 you gain +2 to attack rolls.  55% of the time this works in the player’s favor, but it’s not guaranteed.
    • “Seize the Opening” – When an ally adjacent to you misses on an attack you can shift 1 square and make a basic attack for free, but if you miss, that ally takes damage equal to your level.  Here there is a benefit but also a cost associated with failing a die roll.

It should be pointed out that even though I sorted the cards based on usefulness, I still tried to make sure that all of the cards were useful in some way, there are just some that provide a better benefit than others.

Additional Decks

The Fortune Card sets Fury of the Feywild and Drow Treachery are generally not well-suited for inclusion in the reward decks because of their themes and mechanics–magical effects in the former and “harm another character” in the latter–though one could cherry pick a few here and there. However, they could be used as their own special reward decks if they meet the theme of your game (an evil drow campaign, for instance).   The Fury of the Feywild set contains many magical and unusual effects which are not well suited for all classes, but could make interesting rewards for magical or fey characters in your game. And of course if you’re running an adventure in the Feywild, you could give these rewards to any character, explaining the effect as being tied to the environs. It probably isn’t worth the time and effort to sort these themed decks into multiple ones based on rarity. Instead, choose one of the methods above for creating a single deck instead. The randomness of the draws fits with the flavor of the deck.

Reward Cards In Play

Now that you have a deck or decks from which to draw cards, here are a few rules for using them in play. You should modify these in any way works best for your game.  Note that we are disregarding the standard rules by which Fortune Cards were used during D&D Encounters as we are re-purposing them to fit our needs.

When a player has earned a reward, draw a reward card from one of your reward decks and hand it to them. If you are using multiple decks, choose the one that best reflects how powerful a reward (or whatever criterion you’ve used to sort your decks) you think they deserve.

The player that receives the card can immediately choose to:

  1. Keep it.
  2. Give it to another player.
  3. Discard it and draw another if the player genuinely cannot use the card (e.g. it relies on an effect they cannot produce, like daze).
  4. Optional: Discard it and draw another if the player already has a copy of that card.

Rule 2 can be explained in-game as the receiving player emboldened or awed by the deeds of their fellow adventurer. As a game mechanic, it allows players to spread out rewards among the party and help their allies, or distribute rewards to players who could best use them.

During play, the following rules apply:

  • Once a player has made the initial decision to either keep or give a card to another player, reward cards cannot be traded or passed between players.
  • A player can play only one Fortune Card per turn, but there is no limit to the number that can be played per encounter.
  • If a player has 5 cards, do not reward any more cards. You can optionally allow them to discard a reward to get under 5. Five is an arbitrary number, chosen simply to make the number of cards in front of a player manageable.
  • You can optionally force a discard of reward cards at certain intervals if you want to attempt to encourage quick use of cards. This depends greatly on your game. One possible interval would be at the end of each encounter.

What Earns A Reward

It is up to you as the DM to decide what your players have to do to earn a reward. There isn’t a right or wrong way to do this. Here are a few actions in and out of the game that you might consider worthy of a reward. If you are using a rarity scheme, it’s up to you to decide what their effort is worth:

  • Making you or the table laugh.
  • Consistently helping with a task (tracking initiative, etc.)
  • Getting food for the group.
  • Being on time and ready to play.
  • Completing a quest.
  • Roleplaying.
  • Doing something not because it’s the ideal choice, but because it’s the one that makes most sense for their character.
  • Making a sacrifice in the name of roleplaying.
  • Contributing to the campaign wiki.
  • Doing something awesome and inspiring in game.
  • Enhancing the game in any way.
  • Impressing you.

This is just a small list of examples to get you thinking about rewards, but ultimately it’s easier than following a list: just go with your gut.  Any time you feel like someone at the table deserves a little something extra for whatever reason, hand them a card.


This is by no means a perfect or be-all and end-all solution to player rewards.  Here are a few things to note:

  • Fortune Cards were designed for use during combat encounters and as such contain benefits that are rarely useful outside of combat.  If you want to provide benefits for the overall game instead of just one part of it, you have a few options.  You could introduce a rule that outside of combat a Fortune Card can be redeemed for some blanket effect (e.g. an automatic 10, a bonus, or a reroll of a skill roll) or some similar mechanic.  You could also make your own reward cards (printed on card stock, taped to unused cards, or printed by an on demand card company like Superior POD) and shuffle them in with the others.
  • 4th Edition D&D already provides a large number of tactical options to players, so including another hand of cards for them to factor into their decision-making can potentially slow the game down or add unwanted complexity for some players.  I wouldn’t suggest using them right away with new players or a new group to prevent information overload.  With an establish group, try them out for a few sessions and then ask your players if they like the mechanic or if it adds too much overhead.
  • My suggestions for how to use Fortune Cards as player rewards are just that: suggestions.  If you like the concept, run with it.  Change it in whatever way works best for your game.